After gaining some experience in the fabulous absurdity of watch collecting, it happens to all of us at least once when we receive a new watch: we’re excited at the prospect of peeling off all those stickers and wearing it with pride. And yet, amidst the euphoria of unboxing—a moment we treat as almost sacred—a nagging thought lingers in the back of our minds and slightly tarnishes the moment of triumph : there is one detail about the watch we simply don’t like. It might be a specific link, the date placement, or the color of a disc or hand—it doesn’t matter, it’s that one small detail we wish we could change.
To some extent, you can turn to modding. It’s fairly common with affordable models (Seiko being the prime example), though it’s not something just anyone can do. You need the right tools, some skill, and—above all—compatible parts. With a more expensive watch, it’s a different story: the warranty is voided, resale value plummets, parts are scarce, and the risk of damage is higher.
The other alternative is customization prior to purchase. While impossible with mainstream brands, it is quite common among independent watchmakers, as many components are made by hand or in very limited batches. However, one brand has made this its ultimate signature approach: Ochs und Junior.
Who are they?
Founded in 2006 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Ochs und Junior is the brainchild of Ludwig Oechslin—a legendary master watchmaker behind Some of Ulysse Nardin’s most revolutionary pieces such as the “Astrolabium Galileo Galilei” (one of my grails!) and “The Freak”.
Their models are instantly recognizable for their raw, industrial and modern minimalist design approach—even when featuring complications. For instance, the perpetual calendar model is completely devoid of any text or numerals on the dial. Yet, as you might expect, the brand’s true uniqueness lies in the customization of its flagship models.
Customizable models
At this moment Seven models are fully customizable: Day/Night, Moon phase, Perpetual calendar, Annual calendar, Date, Two time zones + date, and Two time zones.
You may ask : what exactly can be customized? Well, friend, just about everything! The case size and material, the materials and colors of the hands, dial, sub-dials, discs… Every element can be selected à la carte. You can opt for understated elegance or go in the opposite direction with vibrant, playful color palettes.
To make things simple, they feature an intuitive, real-time configurator on their website. In just a few clicks, you can build a watch that reflects your personal style down to the last detail. If you want to push the envelope further, you can even contact their atelier directly to refine your choices with them.
I strongly encourage you to visit their website, if only for the sheer joy of the creative process!
Genius design under the hood
Ochs und Junior builds upon reliable ETA or Ulysse Nardin base calibers. Rather than just dropping them into a case, Oechslin heavily modifies them with his own minimalist modules. One example clearly demonstrates Oechslin’s brilliance: his famous perpetual calendar uses a gear system that adds just nine parts to the base movement, while traditional perpetual calendar modules usually require several dozen.
This also gives collectors the best of both worlds: unique, ingenious complications that remain comparatively straightforward to service.
In keeping with the finest watchmaking traditions, virtually everything is manufactured in Switzerland or the immediate vicinity. As a result, these are rare and relatively expensive timepieces. Expect to pay between 7,000 and 25,000 Swiss francs for customizable models, with a waiting period of around six-eight months—though it is a wait that won’t be spoiled by that notorious, annoying little detail!
At first glance, these prices may seem steep but that would be missing the point: you are not simply buying a movement inside a case—you are commissioning a highly individualized object built around Oechslin’s designs. It’s not for every budget, but the brand also offers two lines of non-customizable models, with entry-level models that are much more accessible. The “Ochs Line” includes models with the most prestigious and expensive complications, but starts at 3,491.60 Swiss francs for the “Mese” models. Finally, the “Settimana” line” with its “days of the week” complication starts at 2,486.30 Swiss francs.
Closing thoughts
Ochs und Junior doesn’t just offer customization for the sake of it—it challenges the very idea of what a “perfect” watch should be. Rather than settling for factory compromises or chasing an elusive ideal, the brand invites collectors to take part in the creative process, transforming potential frustration into pure personal expression.
Perhaps the real luxury isn’t owning something few other people can have. Perhaps it’s owning something that could only have been made for you. And as personalization becomes an increasingly central desire in modern design, one can’t help but wonder—will this direct-to-collector approach remain the preserve of a few brilliant independents, or is it a glimpse into the future of horology itself?
