For many, the passion for mechanical watches is intrinsically linked to the idea of craftsmanship. The antiquated appeal of a mechanical watch in our modern age, where time is more accurately measured by our microwave, is partly what draws us to these fabulous objects. We are not looking for ultimate precision but for an emotional connection. And these small machines with their tiny gears and pinions are all the closer to this idea because they are often associated with the image of a man working in his old-fashioned little workshop.
But today, the vast majority of watches we wear are produced in highly automated factories. Computer numerical control (CNC) machines machine the cases with micrometric precision, while robots print thousands of identical dials per minute. So, in this maelstrom of robot-made watches, owning a watch crafted by human hands has become a rare and profoundly poetic luxury. Knowing that the dial we contemplate several times a day required the patience, discerning eye, and precise hand of a craftsman imbues the timepiece with a unique soul. Every imperfection becomes a signature, each piece unique in the world.
For a long time, this level of craftsmanship (hand-guilloché work, Enameling, traditional lacquer, artisanal skeletonization, etc.) almost was the exclusive domain of the giants of Swiss haute horlogerie, with price tags soaring to five or six figures.
Enameling for instance is a relatively rare technique outside of major watchmakers such as A. Lange & Söhne, Patek Philippe, Ulysse Nardin, Breguet or Girard-Perregaux… the usual suspects. Of course, there always have been some counter-examples among mainstream brands (such as Seiko which still offers hand-enameled dials at affordable prices) but they were often rare, expensive or both.
Fortunately, this is no longer the case: Here are three bold brands that have managed the remarkable feat of offering the emotion of handcrafted dials at still-accessible prices.
1. Selten : Grand feu enamel
The Hong Kong-based brand Selten Watch Co. has made a name for itself by working with unique, textured materials to create captivating visuals without breaking the bank. Their most notable work is undoubtedly their “Grand Feu Enamel” collection.
Selten doesn’t just offer us an enamel dial. The brand takes its craftsmanship even further by hand-engraving 700 curved lines onto the silver dial before enameling. The resulting texture provides a perfect setting for the enamel and gives it a striking visual depth. The result is not simply a dial, but a unique work of art bearing the artist’s name at the reasonable price of €2.253,95
Beyond the dial and the original set of hands, the technical specifications are also excellent with the integration of the Soprod M100 movement (adjusted to +/- 6 seconds/day) with a custom rotor. As for the dimensions, the case diameter is 39mm for a thickness of only 10.9mm giving it wearable proportions for most wrists. More details on their website : Selten
2. 47ZERO: Handcrafted metalwork
Born near Geneva and based in the French Alps, 47ZERO is based on a strong human story and a desire to offer unique pieces through handcrafting.
Here, metalwork is clearly the focus. All their dials are entirely hand-finished, combining various techniques including skeletonizing, oxidation, hand-brushing, and patination techniques. No two dials are exactly alike, and this meticulous work on each piece gives their watches a unique character. Powered by Swiss movements, the price remains very affordable, ranging from €1000 to €2500 for the most complex models.
But what truly sets this brand apart is its unique visual language, seemingly inspired by no one else. Despite an aesthetic approach that often features complex dials, a subtle elegance always emerges. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves, but having held one in my hands, I can tell you they don’t do the piece justice. And if you can’t see them in person, you can still view their entire collection on their website: 47zero
3. AWAKE : Traditional lacquer & hand guilloché
The French watchmaker Awake Concept has reached a major milestone in the world of fine craftsmanship with its flagship Son Mài collection, which celebrates ancestral Asian lacquer techniques, combining the hand-applied application of silver leaf work under lacquer. Dozens of hours of sanding, polishing, and drying are required to achieve the dial’s unique visual depth and relief.
With the success of this first model, the Son Mai Silver leaf, the company continued to offer new models showcasing other artisanal manufacturing techniques like hand guilloché engraving or “The Raden technique”, an ancient Japanese art of embedding mother-of-pearl into lacquer.
The result is always absolutely stunning. Of course, the rest of the watch is of undeniable quality for the price. It features a La Joux-Perret movement with a personalized tungsten rotor, a sapphire crystal, a high-quality leather strap, and one of the most original and elegant lume applications I’ve seen to date, even if it’s not the most effective.
Prices range from €2,000 to €3,200, an exceptionally reasonable price for a level of craftsmanship comparable to that of the major Geneva watchmakers. Check out their collection here : Awake watches
Final Thoughts
By combining ancestral techniques, reliable movements, and accessible pricing, these brands are restoring meaning to what we wear on our wrists. In an era of standardized mass production, they offer a deeply human story. Whether you are captivated by the depth of Grand Feu enamel, the poetic rawness of patinated metal, or the mesmerizing brilliance of traditional lacquer, this form of artistry has never been so attainable. And the movement doesn’t stop here. Independent brands like Isotope and anOrdain are also embracing this poetic approach—pieces I look forward to experiencing in the flesh very soon.
