Let’s get two things out of the way right away.
First, I completely understand that, for some people, the Speedmaster might be the most beautiful chronograph in existence. That’s simply a matter of personal taste. Personally, I think it’s just okay—it doesn’t particularly excite me. But that’s not the point I’m trying to make here.
Second, regardless of the version, there’s no denying that it’s a very high-quality watch from one of the most respected brands in the world. I’m not arguing against that either.
My point is that my old friend Roger doesn’t really care about any of that. What made him spend €8k on a chronograph that’s a bit too big for his wrist was the craziest story in the history of watchmaking: the story of the first wristwatch worn on the Moon. Perhaps it’s the most important watch in the world (debatable!), but it certainly belongs in any top three list of the greatest horological icons. And that’s exactly why Roger bought it.
But when I see it on Roger’s wrist, I can’t help thinking that, over the years, this moon landing story has been diluted by countless watches that embody it and now it has become nothing more than a pale, insipid shadow of the original adventure. Besides, much has changed since the original watch. The movement is different, the case has evolved and the bracelet is nothing like the original. Some versions have dogs on them, others have GMT hands, moon phases, date functions, chiming complication, two subdials, three subdials, four subdials and the list goes on… We have seen every possible model imaginable, in different colours, sizes, materials, even a plastic-like quartz version, but I feel they have surprisingly little in common with the original Moonwatch, and I’m not sure NASA would approve many of these watches for a space-flight today (as far as I know, they only approve the Speedmaster 2 X-33 quartz version). At this point, you could probably sell Roger any Seamaster chronograph with a vague connection to space, and I don’t think it would make much difference.
Watch enthusiasts will rightly argue that it changed history — and I agree 100%, especially if we don’t forget to mention Apollo 13. But when I walk into an Omega boutique, I don’t see that famous watch (even the closest model – the classic Moonwatch 3861, is rarely on display!). It’s a bit like being sold my favorite book, but actually… Well, sir, we’ve changed the ending a bit, the beginning too, mind you, we’ve added characters to make it more modern, we’ve tweaked a couple of things here and there and oh, yes, it takes place 50 years later and it’s not the same author… It’s really a great watch sir, you’ll see, and it’s also four times more expensive…
In short, these watches are now almost only reduced to a story we’ve been hearing for half a century. A wonderful story, yes, but no longer about design or technical prowess – just an ever-recurring sales pitch. And to me, the more people wear it, the less meaning it has. On the wrists of millions of Rogers, it becomes more and more detached from its original history.
So, the question I ask is this: To what extent does Roger see his watch for what it truly is? Does he really love it? Is it really the right one for him?
And when Roger tells me:
“But wait, this is the watch that went to the moon!”
I really want to reply:
“NO, Roger! Your watch barely traveled 500 kilometers from the factory to your wrist and it has far less in common with Neil Armstrong’s watch than my great-aunt’s Lemania chronograph! Besides, it’s too big for your chicken-foot wrist…”
But Instead of being a bit mean to an old friend, I took him in hand and went with him to look at some alternatives.
ALBISHORN Type 10
This one might still be a bit too big for Roger with its 41.7mm bezel diameter, but in my humble opinion, it’s far more original and interesting and above all, much more beautiful!
At only 12mm thick, its proportions are absolutely superb. The ALBISHORN Type 10 houses a proprietary manual movement, made in La Chaux-de-Fonds, COSC-certified and offers a 65-hour power reserve. For almost half the price of a Speedmaster, to me it feels technically equivalent, if not superior.
This watch is the antithesis of Omega. Being a young brand with no spectacular history, they have the audacity to proudly announce that they have none and instead embrace an “Imaginary Vintage Watches” concept, creating watches inspired by a history that never actually existed. Roger is beginning to understand that the history of a watch is, above all, the one he will create when he wears it on his wrist.
Méraud Antigua – Miho Black
More compact at 40mm, but just as beautiful, this Belgian “Swiss made” chronograph watch houses the famous Landeron 248 caliber, an undisputed benchmark.
The Antigua is inspired by classic regattas with a “Big Eye” subdial characteristic of 1960s watches. A particularly successful design where subtle touches of color wonderfully complement its resolutely vintage look.
Roger was won over; it’s exactly his style. Understated but with a touch of whimsy! He signed up for the mailing list immediately. I advise you to do the same if this model interests you, as production is very limited!
Furlan Marri Nero Sabbia
Roger finally began to understand that his watch should first and foremost reflect his personality, not someone else’s story. But what would he wear when he is in his suit and bow tie?
“And why couldn’t a chronograph be elegant?” I asked him. With its inspirations from 1930s and 40s watches, its 38mm diameter, its lacquered black dial, and its sandtone accents, the Furlan Marri is a perfectly versatile watch that will be perfectly at home at his formal dinners!
But Roger isn’t a dedicated collector, and the idea of spending a significant sum of money again wasn’t an option for him. Besides, he reasoned that such a beautiful piece must be quite fragile for someone as clumsy as him. So, with a touch of sadness, he returned the watch into the hands of the salesman. But when he saw my sly smile and heard about the modest price of $700 and the robustness of the Mecha-Quartz movements (Seiko VK64), he caved!
Closing Thoughts
The purpose of this article is not to trash-talk about Omega Speedmaster. Rather, I just wanted to point out that the Speedmaster watches being sold today have considerably less in common with the original watch that was on the Moon.
For someone like Roger, who simply loves a good chronograph, there are plenty of interesting alternatives on the market from independent and microbrands. And if none of the watches featured above is quite what you’re looking for, there are many more worth considering. Take a look at these two articles on chronograph written by Suneeth:
